After years of providing little more than uninspiring, dusty old joints, Bucharest is now home to some genuinely enjoyable and idiosyncratic cafes, an increasing number of which offer sandwiches and snacks. Many also sell alcoholic beverages.

Note that a lot of the patisseries often have stand-up counters instead of seats.

1 Ana Pan Str. Radu Beller 8 Clean and modern sit-down/takeaway patisserie with more than a dozen outlets around the city, serving croissants, sweet and savoury pastries, tarts and yoghurts. Opening time: Mon– Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm

2 Café Boheme Str. Caderea Bastilliei. A short walk from hectic Piaţa Romană, this is a lovely spot to come and relax. Aside from the prolific range of coffees (including flavoured, iced, Turkish), this is one of the best places in town for a hot toasted sandwich or omelette breakfast. Opening time: Mon– Thurs 8am–1am, Fri– Sun until 2am

3 Caffe and Latte B-dul. Schitu Măgureanu 35 In a lovely leafy location across from the Cismigiu Gardens, this is one of the city's most enjoyable cafés, run by happy smiling staff. Excellent coffees, fruit and chocolate shakes, and pastries. Opening time: Daily 8am–10pm

4 Casandra B-dul. Magheru 32 A friendly sit-down place serving savoury bites, fancy biscuits and cakes (including strudel and baklava), and small cups of coffee.

5 Chocolat Calea Victoriei 12a (located on Str. Stavropoleos) Kick back in one of Chocolat's comfortable cushioned wooden chairs and select from a prodigious list of chocolate-flavoured drinks, cakes and mousses. There's even an in-house chocolatier. It's also a good spot for brunch, with cold cuts of meat and salads on offer. Opening time: Mon– Fri 8am–3am, Sat & Sun 9am–1am

6 IO Bar Str. Demetri Dobrescu 5 This former Securitate hideout, gutted during the revolution – as evidenced by the superb wall-length black-and-white prints depicting these events – has been stunningly revamped into offices and a café. It's a friendly and relaxing venue, perfect after an afternoon at the National Art Gallery across the road. Opening time: Daily 9am– midnight

7 Market Café Str. Stavropoleos 8 Another recent funky addition to the old-town area, this adventurously designed café features mauve painted walls, ceiling mirrors and lamps, complemented by beautiful wood, leather and glass furnishings. Fine coffee and cakes too. Opening time: Daily 9am– midnight

8 Panipat B-dul. Bălcescu 24 (24hr), Gara de Nord (24hr), Str M Rosetti 15, B-dul. Brătianu 44, Sos. Stefan cel Mare 48 and B-dul Kogălniceanu 55 Established franchise patisserie with good takeaway buns, pizzas and cakes, including strudel.

9 Picasso Café Str. Franceză 2–4 Cool, relaxing and beautifully lit café, the perfect coffee stop after trooping around the National History Museum just up the road. Can get a bit smoky, however. Opening time: Daily 9am–1am

10 Rendez-vouz Str. Tudor Stefan 7–9 Bucharest's only teahouse is a mellow affair, offering an extensive range of teas from around the world, albeit at rather inflated prices. Daily 8am–11pm, Opening time: Fri & Sat until midnight

11 Saga Café Str. Radu Beller 6 The best of several fashionable coffee shops sited along this hip little street in Dorobanţi; wicker chairs on the pavement terrace, leather seats in the loungey interior, and a decent selection of coffees, ices, ice-cream cakes and fruit salads. Daily 8am–11pm, Opening time: Fri & Sat until midnight

12 Scala B-dul. Bălcescu 36 (at Str. Rosetti) Small shop but with a huge choice of chocolates and cakes; the baklava is especially good.

13 Turabo Str. Episcopiei 6 and Str. Ion Ghica 3 Cool, classy café that draws a moderately posey crowd, but that doesn't mean it isn't one of the best coffee houses in town – deep burgundy seats, spotlights and large bay windows that allow for unalloyed people-watching pleasure. Opening time: Daily 8am–1am

I egory's B-dul Magheru 3 2 - 3 4 and Str. Lipscani 27. Fairly decent sandwich and deli outlets, though not in the same league as the Sandwich Factory.

Hut Calea Dorobanfilor 1 and B-dul Regina Elisabeta 17. Reliably the same as anywhere else in the world, smoking and no-smoking sections, Sandwich Factory Piata Dorobanti, Calea Victoriei 222, Str. Ion Campineanu 10, and Str. Amzei 7 - 9 .

Bright and fashionable outlets serving the freshest and tastiest sandwiches, salads and soups in town.

Spring Time B-dul N. Titulescu 6, Str. Academiei 35, and Calea Floreasca 131. Lebanese-run fastfood chain with a wide range of foods to take away or eat in.

Food in Romania is very good and cheap if you compare to western prices. It seems very expansive for local standard of living. Of course a moderate tip at the beginning to the waiter will give you better service and better food.

Although international cuisine is available in better quality restaurants, make sure that you savour the local Romanian dishes. Typical Romanian specialities include a range of soup - "ciorba", a sour soup made from fermented bran, bacon, potatoes and beef or chiken.

" Sarmale " is a spicy dish of bitter cabbage leaves stuffed with meat, and " Mititei " are small grill sausages perfumed with aromatic herbs. A range of excellent white and red Romanian wines of the famous vineyards of Cotnari, Murfatlar, Valea Calugareasca, Odobesti accompany local and international dishes to perfection, while " Tuica " the local plum brandy is often drink as a digestive.

Around Piata Revolutiei and Piata Universitatii

str Atheneu Str. Episcopiei 3 ® 021/313 4900. Across from the Atheneum concert hall, this homely little restaurant has been keeping pre- and post-concert punters happy for over a decade with its tasty Romanian and continental food. Daily noon-midnight.

Cafe de la Joie Str. Ion Nistor 4. Delightful and intimate little French restaurant serving sensational fondues. Tricky to find as there is no sign indicating the place; it's behind the Bucharest History Museum next to the Bluezone Cafe sign. Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.

Casa Veche Str. Enescu 15. Large and attractive stone-cobbled terrace/garden with a huge selection of wood-oven-baked pizzas and salads alongside some choice Belgian beers. The service, however, can be achingly slow. Daily 11am-1am. La Mama Str. Episcopiei 9 (©021/312-9797), Str. Barbu Vacarescu 3 ( ® 2 1 2 4086), and Str. Delea Veche 51 (®320 5213). With every good reason, La Mama is absurdly popular; mammoth portions of wholesome Romanian food (grills, stews and cabbage dishes), a bustling atmosphere, and cracking prices. They also do take-outs. No shorts allowed inside after 6pm, but, in summer, the terrace is equally as enjoyable. Book ahead. Daily 10am-2am, Fri & Sat till 4am.

La Taifas Str. Clemenceau 6. The smells wafting out on to the street should be enough to tempt you into this wonderfully cosy place just around the corner from its sister restaurant, the Bistro Atheneu. Delicious grilled and fried meats (the lamb mix is very good) rustled up on the patio area before your very eyes. Daily 6pm-1am.

East of Bulevardul G. Magheru and Bulevardul N. Balcescu

Balthazar Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2 ®021/212 1460. Superb contemporary fusion restaurant offering a French menu that changes weekly, and an Asian menu that changes daily (Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese). The classy surrounds, warm atmosphere and impeccable service make the not inconsiderable expense worth it. Daily noon-12.30am.

Chelsea Bistro Str. Jules Michelet 9. Fairly cheap and simple eatery opposite the British embassy, serving light meals such as salads, spaghettis and omelettes; there's also a stylish cafe in the same building. Mon-Fri 9am-midnight, Sat & Sun 3pm-midnight.

Cyprus Taverna Str. Calderon 41. Quiet, simple and friendly little taverna with a wide range of charcoal-cooked Greek and Cypriot dishes (souvlaki, cotlets and moussaka) and meze plates. Mon-Sat 12.30-3pm & 4pm-midnight. Sun noon-3.30pm.

Mediterraneo Str. Icoanei 20 ® 021/211 5308. Cramped, but warm and hospitable restaurant whose mainly Italian menu is complimented by some interesting Turkish dishes. They also do an excellent three-course lunch menu for € 5 . Immensely popular, so get there early. Daily 10am-2am.

Me iogios Str. Calderon 49 ®021/313 4951. A few paces along from the Cyprus Taverna, this beautifully turned-out restaurant is the place to come for seafood - cuttlefish, octopus, red snapper and squid are just a few of the dishes on offer - but it's not cheap. Reasonably smart dress required. Daily 12.30pm-12.30am.

Nicoresti Str. Maria Rosetti 40. Solid, unfussy and cheap Romanian fare under a straw-covered terrace near the Villa Helga hostel. Located at the corner of Str. M Rosetti and Str. Toamnei. Daily 11am-11pm.

Smarts Str. Al. Donici 14 ©021/211 9035. Just around the corner from Mediterraneo, this romantic little restaurant features an accomplished and comprehensive western European menu, but with a major slant towards Belgian - their steaks are amongst the best in the city, while the freshwaterfish pancakes make for an unusual entree. Neat little inn-style bar downstairs, too, where you can sample Belgian beers. Daily noon-3am.

South of Piata Universitatfi

Carul cu Bere Str. Stavropoleos 3. Along with the Hanul lui Manuc (to be avoided at all costs), the Beer Cart is the city's premier tourist hang out. Its attractive surrounds, featuring splendid neo-Tannhauser decor, just about compensates for the rather average food - the mititei (grilled sausages) are good though - and sloppy service. Beware of the tendency to overcharge tourists. Daily 10am-midnight.

Count Dracula Club Spl. Independenjei 8a, 200m west of Calea Victoriei. You'll not be surprised to learn that everything here is themed: the furniture, the food, even the waiters, but it's not as tacky as it sounds; solid Romanian food at good prices. Daily 12.30pm-1am.

Taj Calea 13 Septembrie 127-131. Fine Indian establishment offering some of the most authentic ethnic food in the city; the resident Indian chef cooks up a feast of fantastically tasty meat and sauce based dishes using the freshest ingredients, and vegetarians are well catered for, too. Despite its poor location out near the Grand Marriott hotel, it's well worth the effort to get to. Bus #385 to the corner of Str. Vladimirescu. Daily noon-2am.

Whispers Str. Ion Brezoianu 4. Upscale, yet informal, American-style diner, serving burgers, hot sandwiches and salads. Suffices equally for a lunch stop-off or a more hearty evening meal. Daily 10am-midnight.

North of the centre

Barka Saffron Str.Av. Sanatescu 1 © 0 2 1 / 2 2 4 1004. Awkwardly located, but brilliantly original and enchanting Indian-Fusion restaurant with a different menu for each day. Great little bar playing Cuban-Latino music. Daily noon-1am.

Casa Doina sos. Kiseleff 4 ©021/222 3179. Occupying a prime location on the edge of a wooded park, this late-nineteenth-century building accommodates an elegant and formal (no shorts allowed inside) restaurant serving an upscale, and expensive, take on Romanian dishes; good vegetarian options, too. Live music each night from 6pm. Daily noon-midnight.

Die Deutsche Kneipe Str. Stockholm 9. Terrific, family-run restaurant in a quiet residential street off Calea Dorobanjilor; gut-busting portions of succulent German sausages served with lashings of sauerkraut and washed down with German Pils or keg beer. Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight.

Lobb's B-dul Expozitiei 2. A long way out and in an anonymous location (inside the World Trade Centre), but worth the trek for the very accomplished, and not-too-expensive, pasta and fish dishes. There's top-class jazz here, too, on Friday evenings. Daily 8am-2am.

Nan-Jing Str. Gh. Manu 2, in the Hotel Minerva ® 021/311 1550. Whilst nothing out of the ordinary, Bucharest's oldest oriental restaurant remains the best place to go for Chinese food, though it's patronized mainly by businessmen staying at the hotel. Daily noon-midnight.

Piccolo Mondo Str. Clucerului 16. One of a handful of terrific Lebanese eateries to have established themselves in Bucharest recently, this handsome restaurant lists a long menu of salads, kebabs (including a good choice for vegetarians), yoghurt based dishes, and cured meats. Post-meal, enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe. A good place for al fresco dining in the summer. Daily noon-1am.

Uptown Bar and Grill Str. Rabat 2. Another pleasantly secluded place just off B-dul Aviatorilor (or a ten-minute walk from Piata Dorobantilor. Delicious crepes, salads, pastas, risottos and grilled meats - try and grab a table in the elegant horse shoe shaped conservatory. Daily 11am-1am.

Of all the wonderful things that Bucharest has to offer, nightlife is not the least of them. There is something for everyone in this town: and we mean everyone. From trendy bars to Irish pubs, lounge clubs and jazz clubs and the odd steamy strip show.

Nor will you have to worry about wandering the streets late at night: this is an incredibly safe city.

For many years all that was lacking was a central nightlife strip: an area where you know you will always find lively people and a good atmosphere.

Now that Old Town/Lipscani has been revived and is packed with bars and cafes, that problem has been solved.

Just choose from the categories, left, and read our great guide to the best bars, pubs, clubs and discos in the city. We are the definitive source for Bucharest nightlife listings.

Green Hours 22 Jazz Club

Green Hours 22 Jazz Club is a capsule-style basement club with jazz or theatre most nights.

Address:

Calea Victoriei 120, Bucharest, Romania

Website:

http://www.greenhours.ro

La Motor Another key drinking scene is hidden away in the National Theatre. On the theatre's left side, the fourth-floor La Motor's spectacular outdoor roof terrace brings in students not theatre-goers. It's a booze-filled scene, with live bands at the weekends.

Address:

Bulevardul Balcescu 2, Bucharest, Romania

Piranha Club

Way out in west Bucharest, the friendly Piranha Club is an outdoor web of bars, aquariums, gazebos, eating areas and a stage for live alt-rock shows.

Address:

Splaluil Independentei 313 , Bucharest, Romania

Website:

http://clubpiranha.ro

Ateneul Roman (Romanian Athenaeum)

One of the most magnificent places to hear classical music performed is at the Ateneul Roman (Romanian Athenaeum). This splendid 19th-century building (looking like Bucharest's answer to London's St Paul's Cathedral) presents a fairytale backdrop, splendid acoustics and plays host to the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra and other leading groups. The lobby has a beautifully painted ceiling decorated in gold leaf.

Address:

Strada Franklin 1-3, Bucharest, Romania

Telephone: (021) 315 6875.

Website:

http://fge.org.ro

Salsa II Str. Luterana 9. Fabulous party place where the locals indulge in a more sophisticated mode of dancing - Latino and Salsa. Mon-Sat 10pm-4am.

Terminus Str. G. Enescu 5. Well-established downtown bar just around the corner from Planter's, with English pub-style furnishings and a gloomy cellar. Daily until 5am.

Tipsy B-dul Schitu Magureanu 13. A three-in-one pub, club (a "plub", apparently) and restaurant; have a bite in the very good restaurant before moving on to the busy pub, or, at weekends (Thurs-Sat), the cellar club, which hosts one of the best discos in town. Restaurant and pub open daily 6pm-4am.

Yellow Bar Str. Edgar Quinet 10. Funky cafe/bar with plush leather sofas, loud tunes and a goodlooking crowd. Daily 10am-3am, Sat & Sun till 5am

Entertainment

Bucharest's cultural forte is undoubtedly classical music, and it's possible to catch some top-drawer, and incredibly cheap, concerts in several locations around town. Operatic and ballet performances, too, are invariably excellent, with fantastically ostentatious sets and huge casts.