Food in Romania is very good and cheap if you compare to western prices. It seems very expansive for local standard of living. Of course a moderate tip at the beginning to the waiter will give you better service and better food.
Although international cuisine is available in better quality restaurants, make sure that you savour the local Romanian dishes. Typical Romanian specialities include a range of soup - "ciorba", a sour soup made from fermented bran, bacon, potatoes and beef or chiken.
" Sarmale " is a spicy dish of bitter cabbage leaves stuffed with meat, and " Mititei " are small grill sausages perfumed with aromatic herbs. A range of excellent white and red Romanian wines of the famous vineyards of Cotnari, Murfatlar, Valea Calugareasca, Odobesti accompany local and international dishes to perfection, while " Tuica " the local plum brandy is often drink as a digestive.
Around Piata Revolutiei and Piata Universitatii
str Atheneu Str. Episcopiei 3 ® 021/313 4900. Across from the Atheneum concert hall, this homely little restaurant has been keeping pre- and post-concert punters happy for over a decade with its tasty Romanian and continental food. Daily noon-midnight.
Cafe de la Joie Str. Ion Nistor 4. Delightful and intimate little French restaurant serving sensational fondues. Tricky to find as there is no sign indicating the place; it's behind the Bucharest History Museum next to the Bluezone Cafe sign. Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.
Casa Veche Str. Enescu 15. Large and attractive stone-cobbled terrace/garden with a huge selection of wood-oven-baked pizzas and salads alongside some choice Belgian beers. The service, however, can be achingly slow. Daily 11am-1am. La Mama Str. Episcopiei 9 (©021/312-9797), Str. Barbu Vacarescu 3 ( ® 2 1 2 4086), and Str. Delea Veche 51 (®320 5213). With every good reason, La Mama is absurdly popular; mammoth portions of wholesome Romanian food (grills, stews and cabbage dishes), a bustling atmosphere, and cracking prices. They also do take-outs. No shorts allowed inside after 6pm, but, in summer, the terrace is equally as enjoyable. Book ahead. Daily 10am-2am, Fri & Sat till 4am.
La Taifas Str. Clemenceau 6. The smells wafting out on to the street should be enough to tempt you into this wonderfully cosy place just around the corner from its sister restaurant, the Bistro Atheneu. Delicious grilled and fried meats (the lamb mix is very good) rustled up on the patio area before your very eyes. Daily 6pm-1am.
East of Bulevardul G. Magheru and Bulevardul N. Balcescu
Balthazar Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2 ®021/212 1460. Superb contemporary fusion restaurant offering a French menu that changes weekly, and an Asian menu that changes daily (Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese). The classy surrounds, warm atmosphere and impeccable service make the not inconsiderable expense worth it. Daily noon-12.30am.
Chelsea Bistro Str. Jules Michelet 9. Fairly cheap and simple eatery opposite the British embassy, serving light meals such as salads, spaghettis and omelettes; there's also a stylish cafe in the same building. Mon-Fri 9am-midnight, Sat & Sun 3pm-midnight.
Cyprus Taverna Str. Calderon 41. Quiet, simple and friendly little taverna with a wide range of charcoal-cooked Greek and Cypriot dishes (souvlaki, cotlets and moussaka) and meze plates. Mon-Sat 12.30-3pm & 4pm-midnight. Sun noon-3.30pm.
Mediterraneo Str. Icoanei 20 ® 021/211 5308. Cramped, but warm and hospitable restaurant whose mainly Italian menu is complimented by some interesting Turkish dishes. They also do an excellent three-course lunch menu for € 5 . Immensely popular, so get there early. Daily 10am-2am.
Me iogios Str. Calderon 49 ®021/313 4951. A few paces along from the Cyprus Taverna, this beautifully turned-out restaurant is the place to come for seafood - cuttlefish, octopus, red snapper and squid are just a few of the dishes on offer - but it's not cheap. Reasonably smart dress required. Daily 12.30pm-12.30am.
Nicoresti Str. Maria Rosetti 40. Solid, unfussy and cheap Romanian fare under a straw-covered terrace near the Villa Helga hostel. Located at the corner of Str. M Rosetti and Str. Toamnei. Daily 11am-11pm.
Smarts Str. Al. Donici 14 ©021/211 9035. Just around the corner from Mediterraneo, this romantic little restaurant features an accomplished and comprehensive western European menu, but with a major slant towards Belgian - their steaks are amongst the best in the city, while the freshwaterfish pancakes make for an unusual entree. Neat little inn-style bar downstairs, too, where you can sample Belgian beers. Daily noon-3am.
South of Piata Universitatfi
Carul cu Bere Str. Stavropoleos 3. Along with the Hanul lui Manuc (to be avoided at all costs), the Beer Cart is the city's premier tourist hang out. Its attractive surrounds, featuring splendid neo-Tannhauser decor, just about compensates for the rather average food - the mititei (grilled sausages) are good though - and sloppy service. Beware of the tendency to overcharge tourists. Daily 10am-midnight.
Count Dracula Club Spl. Independenjei 8a, 200m west of Calea Victoriei. You'll not be surprised to learn that everything here is themed: the furniture, the food, even the waiters, but it's not as tacky as it sounds; solid Romanian food at good prices. Daily 12.30pm-1am.
Taj Calea 13 Septembrie 127-131. Fine Indian establishment offering some of the most authentic ethnic food in the city; the resident Indian chef cooks up a feast of fantastically tasty meat and sauce based dishes using the freshest ingredients, and vegetarians are well catered for, too. Despite its poor location out near the Grand Marriott hotel, it's well worth the effort to get to. Bus #385 to the corner of Str. Vladimirescu. Daily noon-2am.
Whispers Str. Ion Brezoianu 4. Upscale, yet informal, American-style diner, serving burgers, hot sandwiches and salads. Suffices equally for a lunch stop-off or a more hearty evening meal. Daily 10am-midnight.
North of the centre
Barka Saffron Str.Av. Sanatescu 1 © 0 2 1 / 2 2 4 1004. Awkwardly located, but brilliantly original and enchanting Indian-Fusion restaurant with a different menu for each day. Great little bar playing Cuban-Latino music. Daily noon-1am.
Casa Doina sos. Kiseleff 4 ©021/222 3179. Occupying a prime location on the edge of a wooded park, this late-nineteenth-century building accommodates an elegant and formal (no shorts allowed inside) restaurant serving an upscale, and expensive, take on Romanian dishes; good vegetarian options, too. Live music each night from 6pm. Daily noon-midnight.
Die Deutsche Kneipe Str. Stockholm 9. Terrific, family-run restaurant in a quiet residential street off Calea Dorobanjilor; gut-busting portions of succulent German sausages served with lashings of sauerkraut and washed down with German Pils or keg beer. Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight.
Lobb's B-dul Expozitiei 2. A long way out and in an anonymous location (inside the World Trade Centre), but worth the trek for the very accomplished, and not-too-expensive, pasta and fish dishes. There's top-class jazz here, too, on Friday evenings. Daily 8am-2am.
Nan-Jing Str. Gh. Manu 2, in the Hotel Minerva ® 021/311 1550. Whilst nothing out of the ordinary, Bucharest's oldest oriental restaurant remains the best place to go for Chinese food, though it's patronized mainly by businessmen staying at the hotel. Daily noon-midnight.
Piccolo Mondo Str. Clucerului 16. One of a handful of terrific Lebanese eateries to have established themselves in Bucharest recently, this handsome restaurant lists a long menu of salads, kebabs (including a good choice for vegetarians), yoghurt based dishes, and cured meats. Post-meal, enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe. A good place for al fresco dining in the summer. Daily noon-1am.
Uptown Bar and Grill Str. Rabat 2. Another pleasantly secluded place just off B-dul Aviatorilor (or a ten-minute walk from Piata Dorobantilor. Delicious crepes, salads, pastas, risottos and grilled meats - try and grab a table in the elegant horse shoe shaped conservatory. Daily 11am-1am.